Migrant Workers and the Migration of Isan Food Culture in Bangkok: A Case Study of Mahome Kan Restaurant

Abstract

Migrant labor plays a vital role in the economy, generating cultural fluidity particularly in the realm of food. Driven by economic conditions, Isan migrants move to Bangkok to pursue opportunities as restaurant entrepreneurs. This study explores the dynamics of mobility and adaptation of Isan food culture in Bangkok through migrant restaurateurs, analyzing their contribution to cultural and economic capital within the framework of creative industries. Using a case study of Ma Home Gun restaurant and structured interviews, the findings indicate two key patterns. First, migrants seek improved economic prospects by mobilizing family-based economic capital, reflecting Bourdieu’s concept of social capital, manifested through Isan culinary culture as a form of embodied cultural capital. Second, they adapt by modifying recipes and business practices to suit urban consumer tastes—for instance, introducing dishes such as Nam Tok Neua and Larb Suk, which diverge from tradition yet appeal to local preferences. Simultaneously, they preserve authentic flavors in dishes like Koi Suea Kua and Tam Dong Daeng, including seasonal varieties, demonstrating creativity in food production. These practices highlight a dual-locality identity, where entrepreneurs sustain ties to their hometowns while engaging in urban life, thereby positioning themselves as cultural production units. Overall, the study underscores how migrant restaurateurs act as agents of cultural reproduction and economic innovation within Bangkok’s creative food industry.